{"id":50059354,"date":"2022-10-13T19:59:09","date_gmt":"2022-10-13T18:59:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/stage.dialogochino.net\/?p=59354"},"modified":"2023-06-02T17:17:49","modified_gmt":"2023-06-02T16:17:49","slug":"59354-gran-chaco-road-indigenous-biodiversity","status":"publish","type":"photo_story","link":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/en\/uncategorized\/59354-gran-chaco-road-indigenous-biodiversity\/","title":{"rendered":"Gran Chaco: Indigenous peoples and biodiversity left exposed by new road"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Crows fly at dusk, as the car heads off the tarmac onto a dry dirt road crossed by small lizards and foxes. Puddles of rain and bushes flank the track, as well as cacti and young trees that hide the wire fence of a vast cattle farm. Obscured by the brush, it is impossible to see just how far the ranch stretches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis whole area has been deforested,\u201d says Tag\u00fcide Picanerai, a leader of the Ayoreo indigenous people, as he drives to his community, Chaid\u00ed, in northern Paraguay. The name means \u201crefuge\u201d in his mother tongue. \u201cHere you can see that they are clearing the small forests that were left. We know that this is killing biodiversity and, slowly, the Ayoreo world.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Chaid\u00ed is a village of wooden houses surrounded by forest, one of the most untouched areas of the Gran Chaco \u2013 the second largest forest in South America after the Amazon, which connects to the Brazilian Pantanal, the world\u2019s largest wetland.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/div>
A house in the Ayoreo community of Chaid\u00ed in Alto Paraguay, around 700 kilometres from Asunci\u00f3n. Several residents of the community live in voluntary isolation in the forest (Image: Santi Carneri\/2014)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Picanerai is a native of this immense but lesser-known biome, partly arid and partly humid, and which, at a total area of 1.1 million square kilometres, occupies half of Paraguay, a third of Bolivia, a good chunk of Argentina and a little corner of Brazil. It is a territory twice the size of France.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Ayoreo are the only people living in voluntary isolation in the Americas outside the Amazon basin. Their right to self-determination is enshrined in law<\/a> by the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights, but they are one of the peoples most threatened and affected by deforestation<\/a>, driven by large-scale agriculture and cattle ranching.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Gran Chaco is in the midst of a transformation, and soon, a new road project could change it even more drastically.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Bioceanic Corridor<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Few are aware of the enormous cultural and natural wealth of this land; even fewer know of the project that is being carried out here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An initiative known as the Bioceanic Corridor will see 544 km of asphalt laid down and a new bridge built between Brazil and Paraguay, to facilitate road traffic from one side of the continent to the other \u2013 a route that would also open up a new path to Asia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A<\/div>
A machine works on the Bioceanic Corridor in the Paraguayan Chaco. The project is a four-country initiative to improve connectivity across South America (Image: Santi Carneri\/Di\u00e1logo Chino)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The soy producers of Brazil and cattle ranchers in Paraguay dream of reaching more Asian markets, crossing northern Argentina to arrive at Chile\u2019s Pacific ports. Until now, passage along this route has been slow, dangerous and often held up along Paraguay\u2019s dusty dirt roads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Works on the new road are in full swing, advancing day after day. Almost all the way from the capital Asunci\u00f3n to the Ayoreo communities, trucks, tractors, bulldozers and hundreds of workers are digging, surfacing and painting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Picanerai was born 34 years ago in Campo Loro, a settlement on the edge of the forest built in the 1970s by members of a controversial US evangelical mission now known as Ethnos360. They forced his parents out of the forest at gunpoint, and to abandon their nomadic life and customs. Picanerai says the missionaries named the place as it is because the men and women did not stop talking, like a loro<\/em> \u2013 a parrot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Tag\u00fcide<\/div>
Tag\u00fcide Picanerai opens the gate onto Ayoreo territory located between the departments of Boquer\u00f3n and Alto Paraguay, in the Paraguayan Chaco (Image: Santi Carneri\/2014)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The total absence of asphalt in the Paraguayan area of the Gran Chaco, which borders Bolivia and Brazil, means the intensive trade in raw materials has so far been maintained by other routes. In early colonial literature, and from the 18th century onwards, the enormous difficulty of crossing the Chaco saw it dubbed<\/a> a \u201cgreen hell\u201d or \u201cdesert\u201d, noted for being \u201chostile\u201d, \u201cdry\u201d and \u201carid\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But while it may seem an impenetrable forest to outsiders, this is not the case for the many peoples whose ancestors were here long before the arrival of the Spanish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A peculiar ecosystem<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Gran Chaco is a forest of palm trees, jaguars, cacti, thorns and anteaters; of caimans and pumas, and precious woods such as palo santo<\/em>, the \u201choly stick\u201d. Its vast area spans political borders to which nature pays no attention, and is divided into four ecoregions that, indeed, include arid and sometimes dry climates, but also forests, wetlands, steppes, rivers and lagoons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Gran<\/div>
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

It is a forest of vital importance to the indigenous peoples who inhabit it and, like the Amazon, to the fauna and flora of the entire world, Andrea Weiler, a biologist and professor at the National University of Asunci\u00f3n, tells Di\u00e1logo Chino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt is such a peculiar ecosystem, so unique and so extreme in its biodiversity that is wonderfully adapted to extreme conditions,\u201d says the researcher, who specialises in monitoring wildlife<\/a> of the Chaco, such as jaguars and pumas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ecological value of the Gran Chaco includes 3,400 plant species, 500 bird species, 150 mammals, 120 reptiles and 100 amphibians. Many are threatened, such as the jaguar<\/a>, the white-lipped peccary<\/a>, the anteater and the tapir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is a peculiar ecosystem, so unique in its biodiversity that is wonderfully adapted to extreme conditions<\/blockquote><\/cite><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen you put in all these new roads, they enable much more intensive traffic. That traffic is going to bring more fragmentation of the forest, an increased [human] population, and as there are more urban settlements, there will be more conflict,\u201d Weiler explains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A reduction of forest area and, in turn, the prey of big cats attracts them to cows instead. Weiler warned that ranchers pay their employees between 100 and 200 dollars for each puma they hunt, and double that if it is a jaguar \u2013 hunting which is punishable with five years in prison. This is, for many in the area, more than an average monthly income.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Neither a desert nor an idyll<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Gran Chaco is not an environmental idyll, nor is it a land inhabited only by indigenous people. On the Argentine side, genetically modified soy<\/a> and cotton plantations have been in place for two decades. On the Brazilian side, a few ranchers own most of the land in the ecosystem. And on both the Bolivian and Paraguayan sides, thousands of Mennonite settlers of Russian, German, Canadian and Mexican origin have settled, establishing timber extraction, cattle ranching, milk, soy and cotton industries. There are also missionaries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Recommended<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/a>\n\n\n\n

Two wars have crossed this territory in less than 200 years. First, the Paraguayan or Triple Alliance War (1864-1870), in which Brazil and Argentina destroyed, occupied and cut up Paraguay. To meet the victors\u2019 demands, Paraguay then sold the \u201cstate\u201d lands of the Chaco on the international stock exchange, privatising forests that were ancestral indigenous territory. Later, the Chaco War (1932-1935) between Paraguay and Bolivia, which was specifically over territory in the biome, saw the deaths of over 60,000 Bolivians and more than 30,000 Paraguayans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the aftermath, the indigenous peoples of the region \u2013 besieged, many of them conscripted or imprisoned \u2013 continued to see their land divided up without their consent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today, Picanerai is one of the main indigenous political actors in the Chaco. He speaks Ayoreo, Spanish and can hold his own in Guaran\u00ed and Portuguese. On his broad shoulders, he carries the responsibility of negotiating with the Paraguayan state to prevent the destruction of the communal lands and forests where his relatives live.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Paraguayan<\/div>
Workers on the Paraguay Bioceanic Corridor. The project will see the laying of some 544 km of asphalt, passing through regions previously home only to dirt roads (Image: Santi Carneri\/Di\u00e1logo Chino)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Every fortnight, Picanerai makes the 500-kilometre journey between his community and Asunci\u00f3n, a city known by some as the \u201cGateway to the Chaco\u201d, as the capital city closest to the biome. In 2015, when I made my first trip with him, this journey took about ten hours; now that most of the route is asphalt, it takes just six.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If he and other leaders do not maintain a presence and pressure on the government, their lands are in even greater danger. Illegal logging, poachers, drug trafficking, missionaries and corrupt public officials are among their main threats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhat used to be jaguar tracks are now marks left by bulldozers. Our brothers only want us to save the forest,\u201d says Tag\u00fcide\u2019s father Porai Picanerai, in Ayoreo language, as he carves a rosewood tortoise in his house in Chaid\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"40-year-old<\/div>
Ingoi Etacori, an Ayoreo resident of Chaid\u00ed, poses with a parrot. He moved out of isolation in the forest in 2004, when cattle ranchers opened a new road near his former home (Image: Santi Carneri\/2014)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Since 2004, the year of the most recent contact with those Ayoreo in voluntary isolation, no further Ayoreo have left the forest. But during the last 30 years, some 7,000 were forced out of the forest. In most cases, they were forced by Ethnos360, which led to clashes and deaths, according to accounts from the Picanerai family and the British NGO Survival<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The new Bioceanic Corridor crosses some of the Ayoreo communities on the edges of the forest, such as those in Carmelo Peralta. Located on the banks of the Paraguay River, the village sits right where the bridge to Brazil is set to pass through. The bridge alone has cost the Paraguayan government US$103 million, on top of the US$445 million in asphalt and concrete for the new road.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Paraguayan pride, Mennonite Chaco<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis bridge and this Bioceanic route will allow Paraguay to be a strategic ally to competitive production in the region and in the world.\u201d This is what Paraguayan president Mario Abdo Ben\u00edtez said in December last year, on a visit to Carmelo Peralta to announce the start of construction on the bridge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From there, the new route traces a straight line across Paraguay that connects the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso with the province of Salta in Argentina. Paraguay\u2019s minister of public works, Arnoldo Wiens, told Di\u00e1logo Chino that the route will be of great use and could bring more resources to his country: \u201cThe state of Mato Grosso alone produces four times more grain than the entire republic of Paraguay. If a quarter of that production uses this corridor, it is already the same volume as Paraguay.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The<\/div>
A woman disembarks from the Aquidaban, a passenger ship that runs along the Paraguay River, connecting the Chaco and Pantanal with Asunci\u00f3n. The Bioceanic Corridor aims to improve connections in the region (Image: Santi Carneri\/2019)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The new road has brought asphalt to the department of Alto Paraguay, a region that had no surfaced roads until road works began in 2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A 2020 report<\/a> by Earthsight showed how Brazilian cattle ranching companies were illegally deforesting portions of the Ayoreo Totobiegosode reserve. The NGO notes in its investigation that leather from the area has been used by European companies such as BMW, produced by Cooperativa Chortitzer, a large cattle ranching company owned by the Mennonite community of Loma Plata, where the first section of the Bioceanic Corridor ends.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Cows<\/div>
Cows at a Mennonite community farm and school near Loma Plata. Sixty-eight cows provide 1,600 litres of milk per day, while there are over 800 cattle dedicated to meat production (Image: Santi Carneri\/Di\u00e1logo Chino)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Loma Plata is, together with two other Mennonite towns, Filadelfia and Neuland, the heart of the Paraguayan Chaco \u2013 an area that is mainly Mennonite, with communities having built up cattle and dairy empires. More or less orthodox communities of these European peoples, many of whom fled from Russia and Germany, have settled throughout the Americas since the 1930s, rarely mixing with the native population.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Berthold Penner is 32 years old, of German and Paraguayan nationality. His paternal grandparents, like him, were born in the Chaco, but his maternal grandmother came from Germany, fleeing from World War II. He grew up on a cooperative farm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Berthold<\/div>
Berthold Penner is of German and Paraguayan heritage and teaches agricultural management in a Mennonite area of the Chaco. He says the Bioceanic Corridor \u2018brings us closer to our neighbours\u2019 (Image: Santi Carneri\/Di\u00e1logo Chino)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Berthold studied agricultural management and today teaches dozens of Paraguayan and Mennonite students in the same area he grew up in, instructing how to make the school\u2019s 68 cows provide more and better milk \u2013 reaching as much as 1,600 litres per day. He also teaches how to reduce stress for the 880 cows dedicated to meat production, how to feed them in a balanced way, and even how to help them procreate. He enthusiastically recounts the details of his trade, while one of the students drives a brand new tractor delivering feed to the animals.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Recommended<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/a>\n\n\n\n

Berthold leans against the wire fence and offers his opinion on the Bioceanic Corridor. \u201cAgriculture is going to increase and all the produce will be able to be moved out in a timely manner,\u201d he tells me. \u201cThe Bioceanic road brings us closer to our neighbours. It is 232 kilometres less of dirt road, on which rains would stop you in your tracks. It reduces the risk and increases the speed and safety of the product reaching its destination.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The effects of the new Bioceanic route are also being felt on neighbouring roads, such as the Trans-Chaco, which crosses Paraguay from north to south and connects Asunci\u00f3n with Santa Cruz in Bolivia \u2013 two cities united by their links to the Chaco, despite the geographical distance that separates them. The Paraguayan government is also working to widen this road from two to four lanes, and upgrading it in remote areas that previously looked more like the surface of the moon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A land of extremes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Among indigenous communities, however, all this development is not being met with the same enthusiasm as among other inhabitants of the Chaco. Fifteen kilometres from Loma Plata is El Estribo, a community of 7,000 people, half of them children, of the indigenous Enxet people. They are also defenders of the forest, but are more urbanised because of their proximity to Mennonite towns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Benigno<\/div>
Benigno Rojas, one of the leaders of the El Estribo community of Enxet people: \u201cIn the Chaco, there are problems when there is drought, and when there is flooding, too.\u201d (Image: Santi Carneri\/Di\u00e1logo Chino)\u00a0<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Benigno Rojas is 79 years old, and seems to have more energy than the children playing pikiv\u00f3ley \u2013 a mixture of volleyball and football \u2013 in front of the village school.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A leader and a defender, Benigno walks with determination as he caresses a green leaf of an algarrobo<\/em> tree. He shows me the lavish samu\u2019u<\/em>, the swollen-trunked floss silk trees also known as palo borracho<\/em>, or \u201cdrunken sticks\u201d. They are everywhere, blooming and offering their seeds to the wind in their cotton-like fluff that covers leaves, branches and the whitish soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIn the Chaco, there are problems when there is drought, and when there is flooding, too,\u201d says Benigno.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Children<\/div>
Children play in the Enxet indigenous community of El Estribo (Image: Santi Carneri\/Di\u00e1logo Chino)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Chaco is characterised by this extreme duality: a total absence of rain for more than four months, with even a lack of water to drink, or an excessive abundance that turns roads into swamps, making access to hospitals impossible and allowing mosquitoes to flourish. But the landscape is also changed by humans, and machines that have recently razed over 200,000 hectares of forest per year<\/a> on the Paraguayan side, and 150,000 hectares per year<\/a> on the Argentine side.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Another duality is economic and racial inequality. On one hand are the large cattle ranches of Paraguayan and foreign investors, as well as the German-inspired Mennonite towns, with their running water and electricity assured, with farmers on large green tractors and cattle ranchers with bank accounts and access to credit. On the other, indigenous communities survive on the bare essentials, with almost no state support to secure land titles and drinking water from tajamares<\/em>, as they call the wells that collect rainwater.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Benigno<\/div>
Benigno Rojas shows one of the last water reserves of the\u00a0tajamares<\/em>, the wells that collect rainwater to for drinking when other sources are unavailable (Image: Santi Carneri\/Di\u00e1logo Chino)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

It is September 2022, and the Chaco has been hit by drought for more than five months. Fires on both the Argentine and Bolivian sides are filling the air with smoke. In El Estribo, Benigno\u2019s community, the drinking water purchased from the state is about to run out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Brazil, the Chaco is a virtually unknown biome connected to the Pantanal. It has recently received renewed attention thanks to a TV soap opera, itself called \u201cPantanal\u201d, which has helped raise some awareness of environmental issues in the biomes \u2013 although it will never match that of the Amazon. The devastation of the Brazilian Chaco is directly linked to the devastation of the Pantanal<\/a> by the advance of the agricultural frontier in the last 40 years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"From<\/div>
From Puerto Diana, on the Paraguay side of the river, forest fires can be seen near Puerto Mortinho in Brazil, allegedly set deliberately to clear land for cattle ranching (Image: Santi Carneri\/2019)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Mar\u00eda Liz Paya, a cook and member of the Yshy indigenous people, lives in the community of Puerto Diana, 200 metres from the Paraguay River and just across the border from Brazil. She lives at the Paraguayan entrance to the Pantanal wetland, but there is hardly ever any drinking water in her house. She lives among palm trees and cacti; among caimans, floods and, lately, droughts. As she uses a bucket to fetch water from the river, water that she will later have to make drinkable with chlorine, she gazes over the water into Brazil and can see the forest burning nearby.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s the ranch of a Brazilian rancher. He is burning forest to make room for cows,\u201d says Paya. \u201cThe fire is advancing every year on the land of our ancestors. What will the future hold for our children?\u201d<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A cross-continent highway brings business opportunities for South America, but further threats to indigenous peoples, forests and animals in Gran Chaco biome<\/p>\n","protected":false},"featured_media":50059402,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","categories":[1],"tags":[511,555],"country":[50002600],"class_list":["post-50059354","photo_story","type-photo_story","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-biodiversity","tag-indigenous-peoples","country-paraguay"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nGran Chaco: Indigenous peoples and biodiversity left exposed by new road<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Bioceanic Corridor brings business opportunities for South America, but more threats to indigenous, forests and animals in Gran Chaco biome\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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