{"id":20001286,"date":"2011-09-09T16:13:10","date_gmt":"2011-09-09T16:13:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/184.172.177.95\/~chinad\/?p=1286"},"modified":"2020-10-01T20:34:54","modified_gmt":"2020-10-01T15:04:54","slug":"vanishing-shangri-la-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/en\/nature\/vanishing-shangri-la-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Vanishing Shangri-La (1)"},"content":{"rendered":"

In Yunnan\u2019s Meili Snow Mountains, tourists are damaging both scenery and culture. Liu Jianqiang followed them to the village of Yubeng to find out what\u2019s happening to paradise.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>This summer, I went on a journey in search of the \u201creal\u201d Shangri-La, trekking up mountains and crossing rivers to find the spot most worthy of the name given to the mythical Tibetan paradise. Finally, I made it \u2013 only to discover that paradise is on its way out.<\/p>\n

Starting in Beijing, I flew 2,300 kilometres to Deqen Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in northern Yunnan, south-west China. The county I touched down in used to be called Zhongdian \u2013 but it has been re-branded as Shangri-La county by local government in a bid to attract tourists, like an actor taking on a more fashionable stage name. It was not the Shangri-La I was looking for.<\/p>\n

Next, a 10-hour bus journey took me along a dusty mountain road, in the throws of being upgraded, across the dry Jinsha River valley, over a cool pass through the Baima Mountains and, finally, to the county of Deqen. This is the northernmost county in Yunnan: go any further and you\u2019re in Tibet.<\/p>\n

But I hadn\u2019t reached my destination \u2013 there was still a long way to go. Another drive around the side of a mountain, over the Lancang River and two hours later I arrived under the peak of Khawakarpo.<\/p>\n

At 6,740 metres, Khawakarpo \u2013 described by American explorer Joseph Rock as \u201cthe most glorious peak my eyes were ever privileged to see\u201d \u2013 is the highest point in Yunnan. It is the major feature of the Meili Snow Mountains, which lie between the Nu and Lancang valleys and have 13 peaks above 6,000 metres, known as the 13 princes. Twenty years ago, a Sino-Japanese group attempting the ascent of Khawakarpo was wiped out by an avalanche, and these mountains remain among the world\u2019s few unclimbed peaks. In 2005,\u00a0China National Geographic\u00a0named the range one of China\u2019s 10 most beautiful, and the Meili Lancang valley one of the country\u2019s most picturesque.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The Meili Snow Mountains. Image by Liu Jianqiang.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Since British author James Hilton described the fictional Shangri-La in his 1933 novel Lost Horizon, many places across the Himalayas have claimed to be the inspiration. The Shangri-La I\u2019m looking for is a small Tibetan village that has been hidden in the folds of Khawakarpo for hundreds of years \u2013 Yubeng. Even today, it\u2019s a struggle to get there: a seven or eight hour walk, or four or five on horseback. Climbing the nine kilometres of precipitous mountain path takes you over Nanzong pass and finally to Yubeng, hidden deep in the mountains.<\/p>\n

Yubeng was traditionally known as the village hidden in the rocks. In times long past, says local legend, a stranger would visit villages near the mountains every year, asking for grain. He would never say where he came from, and so curious villagers cut a hole in his sack and followed the trail of grain \u2013 all the way to a giant rock in the mountainside. When they shifted the rock, they discovered a village hidden within, surrounded on all sides by mountains. This was Yubeng.<\/p>\n

But I\u2019m not following a trail of grain, I\u2019m following a trail of rubbish: plastic bags, food wrappers, instant-noodle pots, fodder containers, beer cans \u2013 all strewn along the winding path to Yubeng, the Shangri-La of legend.<\/p>\n

At the highest point on Nanzong pass, there are several stalls run by Yubeng residents. Behind one of these, I caught a glimpse of something white through the dense trees and went to have a look. What I saw made me gasp: if the rubbish scattered by the road was a guerrilla army, here were massed regiments \u2013 plastic rubbish heaped among the trees: a ghastly sight.<\/p>\n

Since Yubeng was \u201cdiscovered\u201d by outsiders more than a decade ago, this isolated village has become a tourist hotspot. But crowds of visitors have brought with them mountains of rubbish. With no road, all goods and refuse have to be moved by horses and porters, and dealing with waste has become a major problem.<\/p>\n

Yubeng lies in the Meili Snow Mountains National Park. Until two years ago, the area was managed by the park\u2019s management bureau, which had a system in place \u2013 rubbish removal was the responsibility of villagers, who had their names written on bins placed every 50 metres along the road. The villagers were responsible for clearing their area, and then the rubbish would be taken down the mountain on horseback. The park managers had close links with the village and encouraged residents to take care of things themselves. The system worked well, and didn\u2019t cost much.<\/p>\n

But in October 2009, the local government ruled that this \u201cnational park\u201d would be run by a state-owned tourism company, leaving the park office with neither the funding to operate nor the rights to run as a business. A report from the provincial government\u2019s research office said the national park management office \u201chas seen management functions weakened, is in the awkward position of having nothing to do and is in the process of losing its management functions.\u201d<\/p>\n

After the company took over, it spent tens of thousands of yuan employing Yubeng locals to handle the rubbish. But the company wasn’t part of the community in the way the park managers had been and had little contact with the village \u2013 and so the villagers took the money and didn\u2019t much bother with the rubbish. If you\u2019re keeping all the entrance ticket money, the villagers thought, you can deal with the rubbish.<\/p>\n

It was approaching evening when we arrived at the almost-mythical Yubeng. Before the 1990s, this was a very poor village, but the arrival of tourism has made it one of the richest in the mountains, as locals have earned money from offering horse-rides and opening guesthouses.<\/p>\n

\"\"I finally realised why people call this the real Shangri-La. Each and every Yubeng doorstep has a view to envy: towering, snow-covered peaks glittering under a pure blue sky. A stroll through never-ending virgin forests takes you to sacred waterfalls, icy lakes, alpine pastures and majestic valleys. Most importantly for the Tibetans, they live in the embrace of the sacred mountain Khawakarpo, near the cave where\u00a0Guru Rinpoche<\/a>\u00a0\u2013 believed to have brought Buddhism to Tibet in the eighth century \u2013 is said to have meditated. There are 35 households here, with a population of 160, and traditional Tibetan culture has mostly been retained. Almost one third of families are\u00a0polyandrous<\/a>\u00a0(the women have more than one husband).<\/p>\n

The village is now full of guesthouses, and several more are being built. One night I stayed at Sacred Waterfall Inn, owned by a man named Aqinbu and his brother. The place is quite big, with more than 20 rooms. A bridge over a small river out front takes you to a wide pasture with forest in the distance. Further off is the beautiful Goddess Peak, but it is so clear it could be right next to the inn.<\/p>\n

Passing the house next door I saw the family had just killed a calf. I asked Aqinbu how the locals could kill an animal within sight of the sacred mountains. He fell silent, before explaining: \u201cThat\u2019s an outsider; he\u2019ll sell the cow on to one of the innkeepers from Kunming [the provincial capital]. I\u2019ve never killed a cow. The meat for guests is all brought in from outside.\u201d<\/p>\n

Aqinbu said those who move here from outside only come for money \u2013 they don\u2019t respect local culture and customs, and they bring in bad practices.
\nMore tourists mean more guesthouses. With no highway, there has been no way to bring in building materials from outside, and so trees have been felled. There\u2019s no electricity and wood is burned for cooking, heating and light. Each inn has a boiler needing 500 kilograms of firewood a day \u2013 20 inns use 10,000 kilograms. And so, over the last two years, lots of trees have been chopped down.<\/p>\n

The tourists also generate over 50 kilograms of plastic waste a day. But the villagers don\u2019t want to burn it in front of the sacred mountains, and as it can\u2019t readily be taken away, it just piles up.<\/p>\n

Management of tourism is also a major issue. In the October national holiday last year, some 500 tourists arrived every day, each staying at least two days \u2013 meaning that at any one time, there were 1,000 visitors in the village. There weren\u2019t enough packhorses, there weren\u2019t enough beds, many people couldn\u2019t even get drinking water. During the 2007 May holiday, tourists were washing in sacred waterfalls, hanging their clothes over prayer flags and shouting in loud voices. Then an avalanche killed one and injured another. \u201cIf there were stewards, or warning signs, that wouldn\u2019t have happened,\u201d said Aqinbu.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Tibetans worshipping Khawakarpo. Image by Liu Jianqiang.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Aqinbu worries for the future of Yubeng: the villagers used to make frequent pilgrimage circuits around the sacred mountains, but they\u2019re doing that a lot less now, preferring to earn money; they used to treat each other like relatives, like brothers, but now some have learned bad business habits from outsiders, competing and undercutting one another. \u201cGive it another five years and we\u2019ll all be enemies,\u201d He said.<\/p>\n

He believes better management of tourism is needed, otherwise \u201cthis paradise will become another Lijiang\u201d. Lijiang is an old Naxi town not far away which many say has lost its original charms due to excessive commercialisation. The development of Lijiang has been widely criticised.<\/p>\n

In fact, Aqinbu\u2019s fears are already becoming reality. The road from the airport to the county will soon be completed, and the five or six hour journey \u2013 longer when roadworks are under way \u2013 will be cut to less than three. Then, even more tourists will flood into Yubeng.<\/p>\n

Liu Jianqiang is Beijing-based deputy editor of\u00a0chinadialogue.\u3000<\/em><\/p>\n

Homepage image by Liu Jianqiang<\/p>\n

NEXT:\u00a0Local strife at Minyong glacier<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In Yunnan\u2019s Meili Snow Mountains, tourists are damaging both scenery and culture. Liu Jianqiang followed them to the village of Yubeng to find out what\u2019s happening to paradise.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":20000134,"featured_media":20013286,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[764],"tags":[531,20000237,50040707],"hashtags":[],"country":[20000110],"class_list":["post-20001286","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nature","tag-deforestation","tag-sustainable-development","tag-the-third-pole","country-china"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nVanishing Shangri-La (1) | Dialogue Earth<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In Yunnan\u2019s Meili Snow Mountains, tourists are damaging both scenery and culture. 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