{"id":36545,"date":"2019-09-30T14:20:00","date_gmt":"2019-09-30T14:20:00","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2021-05-19T18:13:22","modified_gmt":"2021-05-19T18:13:22","slug":"11545-china-and-vietnam-need-sustainable-coffee-farming-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/en\/food\/11545-china-and-vietnam-need-sustainable-coffee-farming-2\/","title":{"rendered":"China and Vietnam need sustainable coffee farming"},"content":{"rendered":"

This is the second of Karoline Kan\u2019s two-part series on coffee growing in the Mekong region. Part one is available here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

In a street renovated for Buon Ma Thuot’s seventh biennial coffee festival, tourists sat in cafes watching children sing and dance in the traditional dress of the Ede people.<\/p>\n

Propaganda posters in the Soviet style hung by the road, depicting ethnic minorities above bold red slogans calling people to construct their homeland and uphold high moral standards. Many people in the central highlands of Vietnam belong to a minority such as the Ede or the Jarai.<\/p>\n

\u201cEveryone here plants coffee, and coffee is a part of our culture,\u201d said Mr Eban, in the farm he inherited from his grandparents, who used to grow coffee for the French. He explained he’s fine without breakfast but \u201cwould never wake up without coffee\u201d.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Further up the Mekong river, China also wants a slice of coffee fame. Though far behind the major coffee countries in terms of production, growth has been rapid. By the end of this year it plans to be using 133,000 hectares<\/a> to grow coffee, more than triple the 2010 area.<\/a> In its three-year plan<\/a> for the coffee industry, the Yunnan Agriculture Department announced a focus on \u201chigh quality\u201d to make Yunnan coffee \u201cfamous internationally\u201d.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s a huge potential… Yunnan could become Asia\u2019s coffee centre,\u201d reads the plan.<\/p>\n

How coffee is grown and plantations expand is extremely important given the pressure coffee growing can put on the environment, particularly water sources and forest. Recognising this, Yunnan is taking measures to promote organic coffee farming.<\/p>\n

\"In<\/a>
\nSaturday morning in Buon Ma Thuot (Image: Karoline Kan\/China Dialogue) <\/span><\/p>\n

Tradition and ambition<\/h2>\n

China is a tea-drinking country but coffee consumption is growing rapidly. International franchises like Starbucks and Costa have reached almost every big city, while Chinese brands like Luckin Coffee are emerging. Over the last decade coffee consumption has grown at an average rate of 16%<\/a> each year, compared to a world average of 2%, according to the International Coffee Organisation<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Despite the coffee fever in urban China, farmers in Yunnan have little connection to the drink their plants become. Li Yemei doesn\u2019t drink coffee and has never heard of mocha or cappuccino. Coffee is merely a cash crop for her, no different from rubber or mango. Unlike her counterparts in Vietnam, she brews a pot of tea to start the day.<\/p>\n

The dark and aromatic tea grown where she lives in Pu\u2019er is world famous.<\/p>\n

Huang Xujing, deputy chief of the Pu\u2019er Coffee Association, wants to make Pu\u2019er coffee as famous as Pu\u2019er tea.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a challenging aim. When she brought samples to the Beijing International Horticultural Exhibition this year, many people had no idea that tea wasn\u2019t the only hot drink coming out of Yunnan.<\/p>\n

\u201cYunnan has been planting coffee silently for too long,\u201d said Huang. \u201cIt\u2019s time for the world to know we have high-quality coffee.\u201d<\/p>\n

When Huang visits coffee farmers she always brings a bean grinder and a French press. She believes farmers who have tasted and enjoyed coffee care more about cultivation.<\/p>\n

As part of the growth efforts, this year Pu\u2019er established the Tea and Coffee Industrial Development Centre, where Huang works. \u201cPu\u2019er is the heaven of Arabica coffee\u201d, states a board outside her office.<\/p>\n

\"Pu\u2019er<\/a>
\nThe newly built Pu\u2019er Tea and Coffee Industrial Development Centre (to the right) opposite the Pu\u2019er Tea Quality Control Centre (Image: Karoline Kan\/China Dialogue) <\/span><\/p>\n

However, a booming demand for low-cost coffee is putting pressure on coffee-growing areas already suffering serious deforestation from agricultural activities. According to Greenpeace<\/a>, by 2013, only 9% of Yunnan\u2019s forest was still primary, because \u201cmany high-quality forests have vanished and been converted into plantation\u201d.<\/p>\n

Fifty-three-year-old farmer Xing He has to use herbicides and chemical fertilizers three times a year to boost production. And even a light rain can wash away the soil from mountain slopes where the coffee plants grow. Pointing to the reddish river water mixed with mud, Xing said: \u201cThe mountain can\u2019t hold soil anymore. The fertilizers are all wasted.\u201d<\/p>\n

Making coffee greener<\/h2>\n

Yunnan has realised that to establish a coffee reputation, it must improve the quality of its beans and plant in an environmentally sustainable way, rather than follow the mass market\u2019s demand for quantity over quality.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s no future in cultivating low-quality coffee, to pollute the environment and get stuck in the vicious circle,\u201d said Ms. Huang. \u201cWe need to plant speciality coffee which gives our farmers the power to set the price themselves.\u201d<\/p>\n

By 2020, Yunnan plans to have more than 4,600 hectares<\/a> of organic coffee farms using only organic fertiliser and bio-pesticide, and with more shade trees to improve soil quality and water retention.<\/p>\n

It also aims to have more than 3,000 hectares of coffee certified by the Rainforest Alliance (RA), a non-profit organisation that promotes sustainability in agriculture and forestry. Yunnan plans to achieve these goals through efforts including government investment in training farmers and building dozens of \u201cdemonstration farms\u201d.<\/p>\n

\"Y<\/a>The family cemetery at the coffee farm Mr Eban inherited from his grandparents (Image: Karoline Kan\/China Dialogue) <\/span><\/p>\n

In RA-certified coffee plantations<\/a>, farms protect their natural ecosystems and do not contribute to deforestation. Soil should be healthy, waterways protected and the health and wellbeing of workers guaranteed. RA\u2019s standards<\/a> suggest the farms provide at least 40% tree cover with at least 12 different tree species, and pests be managed using biological controls and other non-chemical methods.<\/p>\n

Increasing numbers of coffee companies and NGOs are trying to make a change. In 2012, Starbucks built a \u201cfarmer support centre\u201d in Pu\u2019er, providing trainings for local farmers on increasing productivity and quality on their farms. The company aims to train 200,000 coffee farmers by 2020 to improve long-term sustainability worldwide.<\/p>\n

Rainforest Alliance\u2019s office in Vietnam has also developed an app to help coffee farmers access information and solutions. For example, the app describes disease symptoms and potential cures.<\/p>\n

\"Tourists<\/a>
\nTourists posing at the World Coffee Museum in Buon Ma Thuot, Vietnam (Image: Karoline Kan\/China Dialogue) <\/span><\/p>\n

The road ahead<\/h2>\n

The challenges are urgent but for many people who make their sole living by farming coffee, the transformation to environmentally friendly cultivation is too expensive and time consuming.<\/p>\n

Xing He has never heard of \u201cRainforest Alliance\u201d or \u201cshade-grown\u201d. This year, the key question she is asking herself is whether or not to do a second round of fertilising: \u201cNo fertiliser, no good product. But if I invest in fertiliser, the price could still be low and I lose more money.\u201d<\/p>\n

When the farmers in Cu Pong commune invested in fertilisers and tried to replace some old plants, the new ones soon died, including Thuyl Nie\u2019s. Experts said the soil had been exhausted and polluted.<\/p>\n

\u201cAgriculture engineers advised us to leave the soil to rest for one or two years, but it\u2019s impractical since we rely on the land and farming for our livelihood,\u201d said Nie.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe weather outlook for coffee growers over the next millennium is poor. Coffee farmers will experience climate change through greater unpredictability, with more droughts and flood,\u201d according to Peter Baker<\/a>. \u201cClimate change cannot be adequately addressed at the micro-scale.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nCoffee farmer Thuyl Nie at his home in Cu Pong commune, Buon Ma Thuot, Vietnam (Image: Karoline Kan\/China Dialogue) <\/span><\/p>\n

Annegret Brauss, a project manager at the International Trade Centre in Geneva, said that governments and institutions could further support coffee cooperatives and their members to become more resilient to climate change, including by enhancing access to climate-related information and early warning systems for extreme weather events.<\/p>\n

\u201cWith the increasing impacts of climate change in the coming decades, such projects will not only increase resilience of the sector, but also create new opportunities,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n

Nie said many villagers are leaving for Ho Chi Min City to work in factories, and those who still wish to stay with the land have a new \u201ccelebrity\u201d crop to focus on \u2013 durian. Surging demand for durian, particularly in China<\/a>, has pushed the price up very high.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s 100 times more profitable,\u201d said Nie. \u201cBut jumping in the durian-planting wave might make many people bankrupt once the price drops. We had a similar story with pepper-planting not long ago.\u201d<\/p>\n

Additional reporting by Nhung Nguyen. The story was reported with support from Internews\u2019 Earth Journalism Network. Read part one here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Having recognised\u00a0the pitfalls of intensive farming, Yunnan\u00a0is\u00a0encouraging\u00a0organic cultivation as its coffee industry booms<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3226,"featured_media":60581,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[761,763],"tags":[521,50040317],"hashtags":[],"country":[20000110,20028207],"class_list":["post-36545","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climate","category-food","tag-coffee","tag-farming","country-china","country-vietnam"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nChina and Vietnam need sustainable coffee farming | Dialogue Earth<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Having recognised\u00a0the pitfalls of intensive farming, Yunnan\u00a0is\u00a0encouraging\u00a0organic cultivation as its coffee industry booms\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, 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