{"id":50011635,"date":"2018-09-28T13:00:00","date_gmt":"2018-09-28T12:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/stage.dialogochino.net\/?p=11635"},"modified":"2023-01-26T11:29:32","modified_gmt":"2023-01-26T11:29:32","slug":"11635-chinese-ecotourists-in-hunt-for-colombias-rare-cock-of-the-rock","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/en\/nature\/11635-chinese-ecotourists-in-hunt-for-colombias-rare-cock-of-the-rock\/","title":{"rendered":"Chinese ecotourists in hunt for Colombia&#8217;s rare cock-of-the-rock"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cFor ten minutes we have to stay here quietly. He will only come to us if we\u2019re very still and make no noise.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Ornithologist C\u00e9sar Arredondo\u2019s orders, given in a low voice, are translated into English and then into Chinese. A group of Chinese photographers sit waiting obediently in the middle of a humid forest behind erected tripods and cameras which, owing to their size, look more like telescopes.<\/p>\n<p>Suddenly, an electric orange flash appears. A small bird with a half-moon-shaped crest, about the size of a raven, rests on a branch. A moment later it disappears. It was the Guianan cock-of-the rock (<em>Rupicola rupicola<\/em>), an elusive species that only inhabits countries in South America\u2019s Amazon Basin.<\/p>\n<p>Lenses rotate quickly, desperately trying to focus through dense foliage. There is dead silence. The photographers\u2019 nervousness is palpable. \u201cPlease stay where you are. It will come back. Stand very still,\u201d Arredondo begs.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_11829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\">\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_11829\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-11829\" style=\"width: 2048px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-11829\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/IMG_1598-1440x960.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1365\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-11829\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zhuang Qiang, 55, waits for the cock-of-the-rock (image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>A few minutes later, the cock reappears on the scene and settles on a branch in front of them. A flurry of shutters is unleashed, sounding like an army of typewriters tapping furiously in concert. For more than an hour this typically evasive bird jumps from tree to tree, showing how photogenic it is, posing for the latest model Canon cameras. It is \u201cperching\u201d in bird watchers\u2019 language.<\/p>\n<h2>Half the world for a bird<\/h2>\n<p>\u201cWe spent a lot of money and time to come here, including an 18-hour flight and many hours on the road. All this effort to get here, but it paid off the instant we saw the bird,\u201d says Liu Yi, a 54-year-old amateur photographer from Jinan, in China\u2019s eastern Shandong province. She is dressed from head to toe in blue military camouflage. Even the telephoto lens of her camera is covered with a brown leaf camouflage pattern.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/sHS-6K9Te3k\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><br \/>\n<\/div>\n<p>For the past 23 days, she and five other Chinese enthusiasts toured half of Colombia on a special bird watching tour. It began in the capital Bogot\u00e1 and took them through seven Colombian departments in search of birds like the sword-billed hummingbird and the multi-coloured tanager. Their journey ended in this Guaviare forest, a lush region where the jungles of the Amazon meet the vast plains at the foothills of the Andes.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_11862\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\">\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21479\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21479\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21479 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/chinese-ecotourist.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese ecotourists\" width=\"1000\" height=\"512\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21479\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chinese tourism to Colombia has quadrupled since the start of the peace process in 2012. (image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>Although they encountered more than a hundred different birds along the way, their objective was always very clear: to find the two existing species of the cock-of-the-rock.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt is like the bird was waiting for us,\u201d says Ling Zi Chuan, a 43-year-old graphic designer from Xian in northwestern Shaanxi province, as he reviews the hundreds of images he took from every possible position. This time they were lucky. Two weeks ago they visited a farm near the Farallones National Park in Cali but couldn\u2019t capture the Andean cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola peruvianus). Though they spotted the other species of cock from afar amid the drizzle, they were never in a position to take a picture. In Guaviare, in the tranquillity of its lek, or courtship site, a male strutted proudly around the tiny boxing ring it had cleaned. It serves as an arena to fight other birds and to attract the less colourful brown-plumaged females.<\/p>\n<p>The cock was not the only sighting in Guaviare. In a lagoon, they saw a skunk bird, or hoatzin, feeding its two chicks by mouth. At the top of a nearby tree, they saw the silky plumage of the bare-necked fruitcrow. In a wetland area, they came across a group of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hoatzin\">horned screamers<\/a>, with their raucous, far-carrying cry that resembles that of a donkey. One after the other, they saw the scarlet-crowned barbet, the slender-billed kite, the svelte sunbittern and the fast white-eared jacamar.<\/p>\n<h2>Unparalleled biodiversity, unprecedented opportunities<\/h2>\n<p>With 1,912 bird species, Colombia is a paradise for bird enthusiasts. Despite being the country with the most birds in the world and boasting a great diversity of landscapes and ecosystems, Colombia is only beginning to take its first steps towards profitable birdwatching tourism.<\/p>\n<div class=\"cdo-shortcode--image\"><div id=\"galleryControls-21448\" class=\"carousel slide\" data-ride=\"carousel\"><div class=\"carousel-inner\"><\/div><a class=\"carousel-control-prev\" href=\"#galleryControls-21448\" role=\"button\" data-slide=\"prev\"><span class=\"carousel-control-prev-icon\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/span><span class=\"sr-only\">Previous<\/span><\/a><a class=\"carousel-control-next\" href=\"#galleryControls-21448\" role=\"button\" data-slide=\"next\"><span class=\"carousel-control-next-icon\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/span><span class=\"sr-only\">Next<\/span><\/a><\/div><\/div><p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>With the historic\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/stage.dialogochino.net\/china-and-colombia-building-the-peace\/\">Peace Agreement<\/a>\u00a0signed between the Colombian government and Marxist guerrilla group the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) in 2016, security conditions have improved notably in many regions of the country. This is providing a strong boon for tourism. Guaviare, one of the country\u2019s most biodiverse departments, and also one of the poorest, was for years one of the operating centres of the 13,000 guerrillas who, in July 2017, laid down their weapons. It was one of the regions hardest hit by decades of violence.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d4083580.54233914!2d-74.07066339421755!3d1.7898964468269603!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x8e10db65105949d7%3A0x6435922b4d8854c7!2sGuaviare%2C+Colombia!5e0!3m2!1sen!2suk!4v1537889448928\" width=\"700\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>With an almost non-existent private sector and one of the highest rates of deforestation in Colombia, Guaviare is hoping to undergo a sea change that will allow it to develop job opportunities, whilst preserving its natural wealth. Nature tourism, including bird watching, is becoming a powerful alternative. There are 550 different species here, a quarter of the total within Colombia.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNot only is it becoming an economic sector that benefits many families \u2013 forest-owning farmers, drivers, guides \u2013 but it is also the best ally for conservation,\u201d explains Arredondo, who returned to his native country after qualifying as an ornithologist to set up the first travel agency specialising in nature tourism, aptly named Biodiverso Travel.<\/p>\n<p>This is crucial in a department that has one of the highest rates of deforestation in Colombia and where the Chiribiquete Mountains, home to South America\u2019s largest national park, have just been\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/whc.unesco.org\/en\/list\/1174\">declared a World Heritage Site<\/a>. The area around regional capital and tourism hub San Jos\u00e9 del Guaviare is considered to be one of eight critical deforestation hotspots. It is under threat from the illegal timber trade, the expansion of the agricultural frontier and, above all, the illegal appropriation of land.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_11836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\">\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21538\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21538\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21538 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/chinese-ecotourists.jpg\" alt=\"chinese ecotourists\" width=\"1000\" height=\"512\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21538\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bird photography, along with hiking and bird watching, are nature activities that are increasingly popular among Chinese tourists (image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>\u201cAlthough there are birds even in rocky areas and deserts, there is a very clear relationship between birds \u2013 both in number and in diversity \u2013 and complex ecosystems such as these forests. Even more so when, as in Guaviare, they are connected to plains, hills, wetlands, flood-prone forests and rocky outcrops,\u201d says Rodrigo Botero, director of the Foundation for Conservation and Sustainable Development (FCDS), which has been\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/lasillavacia.com\/silla-sur\/marginal-jungle-road-threatens-open-colombian-amazon-62904\">documenting the dizzying pace of environmental destruction<\/a>. \u201cThis type of specialised tourism is a positive stimulus in maintaining healthy forests which are home to emblematic species such as the cock,\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n<p>Even though it is a small niche, the impact of \u201cavitourism\u201d is two-fold: It generates income for the communities and incentives to change the mentality \u2013 prevalent in many areas where agriculture is expanding \u2013 that the land is worth more without vegetation.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21541\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21541\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21541 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/colombia-chinese-ecotourists.jpg\" alt=\"chinese ecotourist\" width=\"1000\" height=\"512\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21541\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Kaixiang, the Chinese guide of the group, spots a tanager with his binoculars, while the photographers capture it with their telephoto lenses (image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>\u201cWhen the farmer sees that people pay for the experience of seeing animals such as the cock-of-the-rock and that helping them to achieve their goal has a monetary value, he will think twice before cutting down the forest. This incentive, and the environmental education and local pride generated, are fundamental in a department with so much jungle, but so much deforestation as well,\u201d says Arredondo, who in his spare time co-wrote Guaviare\u2019s first bird guide.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21544\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21544\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21544 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/colombia-chinese-ecotourism.jpg\" alt=\"chinese ecotourist\" width=\"1000\" height=\"511\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21544\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">C\u00e9sar Arredondo (left) helps the tourists to identify the bird species of Guaviare (image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>The potential peace dividend from birds is also significant: an\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.conservation-strategy.org\/sites\/default\/files\/field-file\/Peace_is_about_much_more_than_doves_World_Development_Journal_Jan_2018.pdf\">academic study by the Conservation Strategy Fund<\/a>\u00a0based on 2,000 surveys with US Audubon Society partners, estimated that up to 278,000 tourists may be interested in \u201cbirding\u201d in Colombia following the Peace Accord. This could generate revenues of around US$46 million and provide more than 7,000 jobs.<\/p>\n<p>In any case, long-term success and sustainability depends on joint planning between the national government, local authorities and communities. This remains precarious in Colombia.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThere is great potential, but ecotourism \u2013 which represents only 5% of the total global tourism economy \u2013 is not a panacea, it won\u2019t sustain communities alone,\u201d warns Megan Epler Wood, a professor at Harvard University and one of those who has most studied sustainable tourism. \u201cThere must be careful deliberation about the future in the region, with detailed projections of the economic, social and environmental impacts of each development option. A final decision must be based on a balance of these options.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Epler Wood, well-known for authoring\u00a0<em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.routledge.com\/Sustainable-Tourism-on-a-Finite-Planet-Environmental-Business-and-Policy\/Epler-Wood\/p\/book\/9781138217614\">Sustainable Tourism on a Finite Planet<\/a><\/em>\u00a0visited Guaviare last year and went \u201cbirding\u201d with Arredondo. She spoke to locals about the potential of wildlife watching.<\/p>\n<h2>Huge potential market<\/h2>\n<p>The majority of bird watchers, at least in Guaviare, are British and American. Though they have been coming in smaller numbers, Chinese nevertheless are leaving impressed.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI believe the cock-of-the-rock is the most beautiful bird in the world. I\u2019m sure that after we go back home from our trip and show people our photos, more Chinese people will come,\u201d says Han Feng, a retiree from Xuzhou, in the province of Jiangsu, who saw the bird for the first time in a magazine and dreamt of seeing it in real life.<\/p>\n<p>Based on\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/migracioncolombia.gov.co\/phocadownload\/Bolet%C3%ADn%20Flujos%20Migratorios%202017%20(003).pdf\">official migration statistics<\/a>, the number of Chinese tourists visiting Colombia is still modest at 16,879 last year. But it is growing rapidly, increasing four-fold since the country\u2019s peace talks began in 2012, and last year surpassed Costa Rica, a country with similar attractions.<\/p>\n<p>As Chinese travel abroad in record numbers (145 million trips last year), and spend their money (US$261 billion, according to the World Tourism Organization), they are increasingly looking for immersive experiences in nature through photography and animal watching. Among those who came to Guaviare, several have already looked for destinations similar to Colombia. Ling was in Costa Rica at the beginning of the year, and Liu travelled to Cuba last year. Both had been to Japan in search of species such as Blakiston\u2019s fish owl or the red-crowned crane, which are prized among birdwatchers.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21547\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21547\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21547 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/colombia-chinese-ecotourist.jpg\" alt=\"colombian ecotourism\" width=\"1000\" height=\"512\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21547\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">This group of professional bird photographers from China were in Colombia for three weeks searching for birds (image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>\u201cIt is a very large market that Colombia is only beginning to take advantage of, but we are just touching the tip of the iceberg. Thanks to word of mouth, we are going to get a wave of Chinese tourists and we have to be prepared as a country, and as a sector,\u201d says biologist Christopher Calonje, who founded the agency Colombia Birdwatch, and is building an eco-hotel for birdwatchers in Dagua, near Cali. Colombia Birdwatch hosted a total of seven groups of Chinese tourists in the past year, almost all of them photographers.<\/p>\n<p>To fulfill this potential, Colombia and its tour operators must better understand the profile of Chinese birdwatchers. They are usually retired, prefer to travel first class and stay in five-star hotels, are accompanied by a Chinese guide (since many do not speak English), and often prefer eating in Chinese restaurants. Although there is luxury tourism infrastructure in Colombia, it is usually in the cities and not in places where birds are, such as Guaviare.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21550\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21550\" style=\"width: 1000px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21550 size-article-inline-wide\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/colombia-ecotourism-1000x667.jpg\" alt=\"colombia ecotourism\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21550\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ecotourism is emerging as an economic alternative to stop deforestation in the Amazon (image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>\u201cThere is a lot of room for improvement \u2013 roads are in bad condition and hotel standards could be much higher. It can help develop the local economy,\u201d says Han Feng. All in all, a three-week package for Chinese bird photographers to Colombia costs 70,000 yuan (around US$10,200).<\/p>\n<p>In fact, Han Feng\u2019s group got stuck at the end of the trip whilst preparing to leave for Bogot\u00e1 to catch their return flights. A series of 17 landslides led to the total closure of the road, leaving the region totally cut off from the rest of the world and forcing them to modify their itineraries. Fortunately, they were going to make one last stop to look at the colourful wire-tailed manakin, and could buy plane tickets from the nearby city of Yopal.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21553\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21553\" style=\"width: 2048px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21553 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/colombia-chinese-ecotourism-bird.jpg\" alt=\"colombia ecotourism\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1366\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21553\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">(image: Andr\u00e9s Berm\u00fadez Li\u00e9vano)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<p><\/div>\n<p>Colombia needs to overcome such challenges if the number of Chinese tourists visiting the country is to continue to grow. For now, many Chinese tourists choose Costa Rica, which, despite having fewer than half Colombia\u2019s bird species, has years of experience in ecotourism. It is also smaller and has a well-developed tourism infrastructure. Furthermore, foreigners are only just beginning to change their perception of Colombia.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMany people in China still have the Hollywood idea that Colombia is a dangerous place. We now know it\u2019s perfectly safe,\u201d says Ling Zi Chuan, who also teaches photography.<\/p>\n<p>He has been delighted by capturing dozens of species of hummingbirds doing aerial pirouettes as they extract the nectar from a flower. \u201cWe don\u2019t have any in China. You can see them here, everywhere. The birds all come very close to people. That means people are friendly to them,\u201d he says, while showing one of the images signed using his nickname, Mr Ling, that he uploads to his WeChat account.<\/p>\n<p>Does this group think more Chinese tourists will come? \u201cYes, for this bird,\u201d replies Liu Yi, showing a close-up of it, its orange crest tipped by a halo of light.<\/p>\n<div class='cdo-shortcode--image'><\/p>\n<p><figure id=\"attachment_21556\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21556\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21556 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/IMG_5176-1-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"colombia ecotourism\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21556\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The much anticipated Guyanese cock-of-the-rock that lives in the Amazon basin (image: C\u00e9sar Arrendondo)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n<p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Forests in post-peace deal Colombia attract the intrepid but its prized biodiversity is in danger <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":50000003,"featured_media":50016748,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[764],"tags":[511,523,50040739],"hashtags":[],"country":[50000025],"class_list":["post-50011635","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nature","tag-biodiversity","tag-conservation","tag-tourism","country-colombia"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v26.0 (Yoast SEO v26.0) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Chinese ecotourists in hunt for Colombia&#039;s rare cock-of-the-rock | Dialogue Earth<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" 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