{"id":60112826,"date":"2025-12-11T18:49:03","date_gmt":"2025-12-11T18:49:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/?p=60112826"},"modified":"2025-12-18T15:01:07","modified_gmt":"2025-12-18T15:01:07","slug":"nembi-guasu-the-great-bolivian-hideaway-fighting-against-fire","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/en\/forests\/nembi-guasu-the-great-bolivian-hideaway-fighting-against-fire\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00d1embi Guasu: The great Bolivian hideaway fighting against fire"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

On the last day of August this year, flames reached the \u00d1embi Guasu Conservation Area. This part of eastern Bolivia, located near its border with Brazil in the department of Santa Cruz, is a protected region under Indigenous jurisdiction. Its grasslands and scrubland burned<\/a> for 11 days, fuelled by the wind and accumulated biomass.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen you see the fire coming, it\u2019s scary. But we learned not to run. To face it with respect. Sometimes fire teaches you more than any school,\u201d says Juan Carlos Chan\u00e9, a forest ranger from Guarayos province in Santa Cruz, which lies relatively close to the \u00d1embi Guasu reserve.

For the past three years, Chan\u00e9 has been part of a group of Indigenous volunteers who help to take care of the reserve. They monitor the condition of its flora and fauna, and visit zones that are recording particularly high temperatures. The volunteers work in partnership with the \u00d1embi Misi Operational Centre<\/a>, created by the Indigenous autonomous government of Charagua, the main local authority. Civil society organisations also support this work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The guardians of \u00d1embi Guasu<\/a> were the first to respond to the emergency: they opened firebreaks \u2013 strips of land cleared of vegetation to interrupt the advance of fire; they considered creating backfires \u2013 controlled burns that consume the material that a fire is heading towards; and they secured the \u201cblack line\u201d \u2013 just-burned areas at the edges of a fire that have been cleared to suppress the reignition of embers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe worked tirelessly, sleeping little, meeting among blackened trees to devise strategies, sharing resources and focusing all our energy on containing the front,\u201d recalls Hugo S\u00e1nchez, a forest firefighter and fire management technician.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Firefighters<\/div>
Firefighters and guardians strategising on location to contain a fire in \u00d1embi Guasu. Members of the local guardian community are often the first to respond (Image: Jazm\u00edn Baz\u00e1n)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The operation required constant coordination. Motorcycles and quad bikes were used to transport personnel and water between points that take hours to travel between on foot. The topography forced them to open access routes by hand, with shovels and hoes, to anchor firebreaks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe saw charred animals and destroyed forests. Fire is unforgiving,\u201d laments the firefighter and park ranger, Eliezer \u201cPirulico\u201d Su\u00e1rez Cu\u00e9llar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is not the first time they have faced such a situation: they say that in 2019<\/a> and 2021<\/a>, \u00d1embi Guasu experienced large-scale fires<\/a>, the latter affecting around 180,000 hectares.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00d1embi Guasu covers 1,207,850 hectares in total and is considered one of the most threatened and least explored ecosystems on the planet. Nationally, 2024<\/a> marked the historic peak of areas burned by wildfires in Bolivia, mainly in the departments of Santa Cruz and Beni. Some 12.6 million hectares burned \u2013 approximately equivalent to the total area of North Korea \u2013 according<\/a> to the Environment and Water Ministry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"aerial<\/div>
A nighttime aerial view of \u00d1embi Guasu’s August wildfires. They raged for 11 days, affecting around 1,700 hectares (Image: Jorge Sea \/ Nativa)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

On the eleventh day, \u00d1embi Guasu\u2019s fire was brought under control, aided by rainfall, which crowned the guardians\u2019 efforts. The final toll was around 1,700 affected hectares, says Jorge Sea, a local forestry engineer and firefighter. He works for Nativa, an organisation that helps the local Indigenous community with technical knowledge and supplies. Fortunately, the protected area withstood the blaze.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dedicated guardians<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00d1embi Guasu is in the Gran Chaco<\/a>, a biome that contains South America\u2019s second largest forest and spreads across Bolivia, Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil. \u00d1embi Guasu is a transition zone, a mosaic of lands with particular ecological and biological characteristics. Here, the dry Chiquitano forests and the thorny Gran Chaco meet, transitioning into the tropical wetlands of the Bolivian Pantanal. Transition zones (also known as ecotones<\/a>) like \u00d1embi Guasu are of exceptional environmental value, because distinct natural systems mingle and diversify within them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00d1embi Guasu is accessed from the Santa Cruz town of Robor\u00e9 via a dirt road that requires sturdy wheels. Dense, thorny vegetation accompanies the journey to its entrance \u2013 \u00d1embi Guasu translates to the \u201cgreat hiding place\u201d from Guaran\u00ed, an Indigenous language and the name given to the people of this region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\u00d1embi<\/div>
\u00d1embi Guasu means \u2018great hiding place\u2019 in Guaran\u00ed, an Indigenous language. The \u00d1embi Guasu Conservation Area is managed by the Guaran\u00ed Charagua Iyambae Autonomy (Image: Jazm\u00edn Baz\u00e1n)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis place is the heart of the Chaco. If it is damaged, everything around it becomes sick,\u201d sums up Alejandro Arambiza, director of the \u00d1embi Guasu Conservation Area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bolivia constitutionally recognises 36<\/a> Indigenous peoples and eight<\/a> legally-constituted Indigenous autonomies. The pioneer of the latter is the Guaran\u00ed Charagua Iyambae Autonomy, which administers \u00d1embi Guasu, as well as the Kaa Iya del Gran Chaco<\/a> and Otuquis<\/a> national parks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As per the Statute of the Guaran\u00ed Charagua Iyambae Autonomy<\/a>, the Guaran\u00ed term kaa iya<\/em> is an expression of reciprocity: the forest is a living being with which humanity coexists, and it must be respected. This is reflected in \u00d1embi Guasu\u2019s management in the form of restricted areas, protected water sources and community decisions on what to use, when and how.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"river<\/div>
The San Miguel River inside the \u00d1embi Guasu Conservation Area. The guardians regard the forest as a living being, which is reflected in the management of its restricted areas and protected water sources (Image: Jazm\u00edn Baz\u00e1n)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

There, the guardians of the forest combine ancestral knowledge and technical training to protect it. The \u00d1embi Misi Operational Centre<\/a>, seven kilometres from Robor\u00e9, is responsible for planning, training and reviewing camera traps. From there, the brigades patrol for weeks, recording wildlife, detecting hot spots and going out to fight the fire as it advances.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI used to hunt. Now I protect,\u201d says Franz Chumira, a Guaran\u00ed park ranger from Isoso, one of the Charagua Iyambae Autonomy\u2019s six zones. \u201cI like to think that I am like the jaguar: I walk silently, but I protect my territory.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201c\u00d1embi Guasu was born from the Guaran\u00ed philosophy of Yaiko Kavi P\u00e4ve<\/em>, or \u2018good living\u2019: conserving, but also living in balance with the forest,\u201d explains Sea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A living territory<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00d1embi Guasu connects the Amazon and La Plata river basins, and protects the headwaters of the San Miguel and Parapet\u00ed rivers. It forms an ecological corridor covering more than six million hectares.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"tapir<\/div>
A tapir (Tapirus terrestris<\/em>) in northern Bolivia’s Beni department. This species, along with jaguars, giant armadillos and anteaters, can also be found in \u00d1embi Guasu (Image: Peter Giovannini \/ imageBROKER \/ Alamy)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Among its most unique ecosystems is the Abayoy<\/a>, a low-lying forest endemic to the Bolivian Chaco, where plants and trees like the pink tajibo (Handroanthus abayoy<\/em>), the paquiocillo and the red quebracho grow. The jaguar (Panthera onca<\/em>), the tapir (Tapirus terrestris<\/em>), the giant armadillo (Priodontes maximus<\/em>) and the giant anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla<\/em>) move through the leaf litter. Native pit vipers and Chaco birds such as the chaj\u00e1 or southern screamer (Chauna torquata<\/em>) also inhabit the area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Autonomous Region is concerned with protecting the Abayoy, safeguarding large mammals such as the jaguar, tapir, giant armadillo and giant anteater, and preserving the communities that depend on the forest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Totobiegosode Indigenous community, part of the Ayoreo ethnic group, lives within this protected area in voluntary isolation and its way of life requires the integrity of the forest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis forest seems asleep, but it is full of life,\u201d describes Rub\u00e9n Dar\u00edo Montero, a member of the \u00d1embi Misi team. He is responsible for monitoring the area with cameras. \u201cAt night you can hear everything: the monkeys, the pumas, the parrots.\u201d Montero has identified at least eight jaguars and several pumas. \u201cOnce I saw them five metres away. First, I felt fear, then respect,\u201d he recalls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The constant threat<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The balance that \u00d1embi Guasu protects is fragile. Deforestation and illegal settlements put pressure on the dry forest and increase its vulnerability to fire. Although the reserve \u2013 thanks to the work of its protectors \u2013 was spared from the great fires of 2024 that ravaged Santa Cruz, fire broke out the following year, showing that the risk never disappears.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe flames come from the borders of Robor\u00e9 or Charagua, driven by the wind and dryness. Sometimes a single spark is enough to set everything ablaze,\u201d warns S\u00e1nchez.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the region, the burning season is concentrated between June and September, when the accumulating biomass and low humidity increase the danger. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe are in an environmental pause, but there are still people who clear and burn without permission. My job is to detect hot spots and give timely warning. When a fire is confirmed, the guardians go in with everything they\u2019ve got,\u201d says Romualdo Enr\u00edquez, an environmental technician for the autonomy who monitors the territory from Charagua.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/div>
Historical deforestation for roads and settlement construction on the edge of the \u00d1embi Guasu Conservation Area (Satellite images: Landsat \/ Copernicus via Google Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Field reports prepared by the \u00d1embi Misi team \u2013 guardians, technicians, firefighters and members of the autonomous government \u2013 together with Nativa, indicate perimeter hotspots linked to agricultural expansion and settlements on the edges of the protected area. Early detection is key to preventing the fire from entering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMost fires here are caused deliberately. Some people burn to clear land and save on machinery. But the forest has a memory: if it burns once, it takes years to recover. Borders are set by humans, not nature,\u201d Su\u00e1rez Cu\u00e9llar emphasises.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Logistics are organised from \u00d1embi Misi: water, fuel, tools and relief teams. Rose Mary Braner Weber is in charge of coordinating vehicles and bringing water and batteries \u2013 all while wildfires are burning as little as 30 metres away from her. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When the flames approach, the response is activated from the territory. The Autonomous Government of Charagua Iyambae, the fire brigade and organisations in the area activate their early warning and community communication system: guardians, authorities and neighbours coordinate by radio and telephone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"row<\/div>
Firefighters and guardians organise at the \u00d1embi Misi Operational Centre, seven kilometres from the town of Robor\u00e9. From here, the brigades patrol for weeks, recording wildlife, detecting hot spots and going out to fight the fire as it advances (Image: Jorge Sea \/ Nativa)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe response does not come from above, but from the territory. The guardians, the Indigenous government and the communities organise themselves quickly,\u201d says Pamela Rebolledo, a biologist and Nativa project manager. She says it can serve as a genuine example of how environmental sovereignty can function, one that could be replicated internationally.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even so, there are ideological and practical tensions with the central government when it comes to, for example, development plans, or resource sharing. \u201cThere is a management plan here. We defend our place with meetings, reports and our presence,\u201d summarises Arambiza. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>
Recommended<\/span><\/span><\/div><\/a>\n\n\n\n

He also says he does not want \u201cthe forest to be split in two\u201d. He is referring to a road project<\/a> which, according to Bolivian Road Administration (ABC) maps, seeks to connect Bolivia and Paraguay by crossing part of the protected territory. The Guaran\u00ed Charagua Iyambae Autonomy has expressed its opposition to the project and demanded it be consulted and keep control of environmental management, as established in its statute. Meanwhile, an Indigenous rights organisation has accused the Santa Cruz authorities of spreading misinformation<\/a> as its plans for the road progress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ever since a constitutional reform<\/a> in 2009, Bolivia has recognised the right of Indigenous, native and peasant peoples to self-determination, self-governance and the management of the resources within their territories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, for the defenders of \u00d1embi Guasu, the resistance is not only environmental: it is also cultural and political. The right to decide on the territory \u2013 including fire management \u2013 is part of that defence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This article was produced with the support of the Earth Journalism Network\u2019s Biodiversity Grant 2025.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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