{"id":60138503,"date":"2026-06-17T18:20:18","date_gmt":"2026-06-17T17:20:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/?p=60138503"},"modified":"2026-06-17T18:20:23","modified_gmt":"2026-06-17T17:20:23","slug":"as-india-gets-hotter-clothing-adds-a-layer-to-caste-inequality","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dialogue.earth\/en\/climate\/as-india-gets-hotter-clothing-adds-a-layer-to-caste-inequality\/","title":{"rendered":"As India gets hotter, clothing adds a layer to caste inequality"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Inside the narrow lanes of Shahbad Dairy, a suburb outside north-west Delhi, is a concrete maze of houses packed tightly together. Trees are scarce. A breeze is hardly able to pass through these cramped and unventilated alleys, and by afternoon, the heat is oppressive and inescapable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Poonam and her sister-in-law Ritika, who live next door to each other, ask their kids not to play outdoors under the hot sun. But though the temperature outside is 40C, it feels a lot hotter indoors. The tin and concrete roofs of their houses trap heat. With no windows, there is barely any ventilation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Had they been men, Poonam and Ritika could have changed into shorter or looser clothing. Instead, tradition dictates that they cover their bodies in multiple layers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis material makes you sweat more. It does not absorb sweat,\u201d says Poonam, gesturing towards her salwar kameez<\/em> and dupatta<\/em> made of synthetic textiles. This forms a three-piece ensemble consisting of a long tunic, ankle-length trousers and a scarf \u2013 the dupatta<\/em> \u2013 draped around the shoulders, neck and sometimes over the head.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As heatwaves become more frequent<\/a> and intense<\/a>, experts Dialogue Earth spoke to say wearing natural fabrics like cotton and linen is emerging as a form of heat adaptation. But for many like Poonam and Ritika, they are a luxury, costing double their synthetic counterparts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Their family belongs to the Dalit community, a historically oppressed group of castes. Despite finishing high school, their father-in-law Paale Ram was pushed into sanitation work because of his caste, cleaning sewers like his father and grandfather before him. His sons do the same work, their family\u2019s economic circumstances reflecting generations of exclusion from better paid and more secure livelihoods. (The Dalit families Dialogue Earth spoke to do not use last names to avoid further caste-based discrimination.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The family\u2019s earnings barely cover household expenses, leaving little money for clothing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Narrow<\/div>
Narrow lanes and densely packed housing hamper airflow in Shahbad Dairy, where many families struggle to keep cool during Delhi\u2019s increasingly intense summers (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

In Delhi, many of the workers most exposed to extreme heat, including sanitation and informal labourers, continue to come from historically marginalised caste communities. A 2024 analysis<\/a> by The Hindu notes that nearly 70% of sewer and septic tank workers in India belong to oppressed castes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

For workers spending long hours performing physically demanding labour in hot conditions, clothing matters. But \u201cwhen income is limited, food and shelter become bigger priorities,\u201d says Afrose Farid, a professor in the Department of Textile Design at Kerala\u2019s National Institute of Fashion Technology.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cost of comfort<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Natural fabrics such as cotton and linen are widely preferred for hot weather because of their superior moisture absorption and breathability, Farid tells Dialogue Earth. Synthetic materials like polyester and nylon can feel uncomfortable in extreme heat, particularly for those spending long hours outdoors or in poorly ventilated homes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"single<\/div>
A single ceiling fan circulates warm air inside Ritika\u2019s concrete house on a hot summer\u2019s day (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"ceiling<\/div>
In Poonam\u2019s house, a fan hangs beneath a tin roof that absorbs heat throughout the day, making the interior feel hotter than the outdoor temperature (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

But the cost of polyester and cotton in India differ significantly. Dalit families struggle to reconcile that steep difference.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Paale Ram earns around INR 35,000 (USD 371) a month, while Poonam\u2019s husband, a bus conductor who also cleans sewers, earns up to INR 40,000 (USD 424). Their combined income, for a family of seven, barely covers household expenses and their three children\u2019s education.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cA cotton salwar suit<\/em> [consisting of a salwar kameez <\/em>and dupatta<\/em>] will cost you more than INR 1,000 (USD 10), whereas blended fabric or synthetic fibres will only cost you INR 300,\u201d says Riya, who is also from a Dalit household in Shahbad Dairy. Her husband works on the city\u2019s sewer lines and earns INR 15,000 a month. They have five kids, and buying them clothes made of breathable fabric has been an added expense the family never anticipated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cUnequal access to comfortable clothing is not just poverty but a caste issue,\u201d says Bezwada Wilson, the national convenor of the Safai Karmachari Andolan, an Indian organisation campaigning to eradicate manual scavenging, which means cleaning human waste from sewers by hand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"fabric<\/div>
Poonam says the synthetic fabrics she can afford feel uncomfortable during days with extreme heat (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"seated<\/div>
To stay cool while keeping costs down, Riya mixes cotton garments with cheaper synthetic clothing (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Historically, clothing has been a tool of caste discrimination, Farid notes. \u201cEarlier, caste-based discrimination focused on giving them less clothes to wear to humiliate them. But today, they are unable to access proper clothing because of their economic conditions,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIn India, class is always \u2026 going to be affected by caste. You cannot take caste away from class,\u201d anti-caste activist and designer Jay Sagathia tells Dialogue Earth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Double discrimination<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Marginalised communities face \u201cdouble discrimination\u201d \u2013 economic deprivation layered with caste-based exclusion that determines where services, infrastructure and dignity are available, notes Wilson, who is also from the Dalit community.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many Dalit families working in caste-linked occupations rely on second-hand clothing or local markets that cater to low-income customers, he says. Local markets often reflect assumptions about what poor communities can afford. \u201cNear our houses, we won\u2019t get cotton at all because they know that we are not using this,\u201d Wilson adds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"man<\/div>
Bezwada Wilson, a Dalit activist and national convenor of the Safai Karmachari Andolan, an Indian organisation campaigning to eradicate manual scavenging, at his office in Delhi (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Despite India being one of the largest producers of cotton globally, with an industry employing up to 50 million<\/a> people, the fabric remains out of reach for many low-income families.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sagathia says during visits to craft-producing communities in Gujarat, he met artisans from marginalised communities making intricate garments that were sold at prices they themselves could not afford. \u201cThe people who are making it are not able to wear it,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Synthetic clothing could also become more ubiquitous in India through government schemes to boost the textile industry. In 2021, the government began offering companies incentives<\/a> totalling over INR 10,000 crore<\/em> (USD 1.1 billion) to expand production of manmade fabrics such as polyester, acrylic and viscose. Government officials told<\/a> industry publication Apparel Resources earlier this month that the scheme could be extended by several years to accommodate more applicants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unequal impacts of heat<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

For five to six hours a day, 60-year-old Paale Ram wears a uniform made of synthetic materials to carry out his sanitation work, which involves shovelling waste from open drains near hot paved surfaces. Though it\u2019s a simple vest worn over clothes, it traps heat, he says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe vest sometimes suffocates me. It is easier when I wear softer clothes in which my body can breathe while I work outside,\u201d he says. Paale Ram has fainted twice this summer, often feels dizzy and says his eyes have been hurting. He has also had frequent bouts of diarrhoea. These symptoms have been associated<\/a> with heat exhaustion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

He owns two weathered sets of cotton kurta pyjama<\/em> \u2013 a long tunic paired with loose trousers \u2013 which he alternates wearing to work. \u201cI am not sure when I can buy my next set of clothes.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"man<\/div>
Paale Ram, a sanitation worker, says outdoor labour has become increasingly difficult as temperatures rise (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

According to Sagathia, such suffering shows how labour itself is valued, and whose comfort and safety is prioritised. \u201cIf you come from an oppressed caste, your body is \u2026 disposable,\u201d he says. Heat protection is rarely treated as part of occupational safety for informal workers, of which many belong to oppressed castes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beyond clothing, multiple factors intensify heat exposure for workers, like Paale Ram, in caste-based occupations, says Wilson. These include poor housing conditions, limited nutrition, irregular sleep and restricted access to water. Caste discrimination further deepens heat vulnerability, he adds; sanitation workers often cannot request drinking water while on duty due to continuing practices of untouchability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"fluorescent<\/div>
Paale Ram dons his fluorescent vest for work. He says wearing the synthetic layer over his cotton clothes is uncomfortable in Delhi\u2019s summer heat (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

At home, it is not any easier. The family bought a second-hand air cooler after months of saving, but \u201cit only makes the air more humid\u201d, Poonam says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then there is the added layer of gender. Women face expectations around modesty, having to wear saris<\/em>, dupattas<\/em> or work uniforms over garments. \u201cThe number of layers a woman wears in such settings is much more, and they are more affected by heat,\u201d says Farid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe ensure the kids are at least wearing cotton clothes. Their bodies are more sensitive,\u201d Poonam says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Desire vs durability<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Dependence on synthetic clothing is not necessarily down to preference, says Wilson. \u201cPolyester and nylon clothes are often the preferred choice, despite the discomfort, because they are more durable, so people don\u2019t have to keep buying clothes,\u201d he notes. Cotton garments wear out faster with frequent use and washing than synthetic fabrics.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Market research<\/a> from consulting firm IMARC points to the dominance of polyester clothing in India, with nearly 62% market share in product demand due to its durability, cost efficiency and versatility.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/div>
Residents of Shahbad Dairy often spend hours securing small amounts of water for drinking, leaving little to spare for activities such as clothes washing (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Dalit families Dialogue Earth spoke to acknowledged that cotton turns soft after multiple washes, making it more comfortable to wear. But Poonam says clothes washing is not a priority for her family, as their current daily water supply is only half of what they need, and most of it is for drinking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Clothing needs more thought<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cHeat is pushing oppressed communities into another layer of vulnerability\u201d, Wilson says, adding that heatwaves are not experienced equally.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Both Wilson and Farid note that discussions on heat protection often focus on infrastructure such as fans, coolers and air conditioning, while clothing is rarely seen as a form of protection. Yet for those from marginalised communities working long hours outdoors, who already face barriers to accessing relief from heat, clothing is often the first source of protection against extreme temperatures. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThey are the ones working in open skies, under extreme weather conditions. With climate change, their occupational heat exposure will only increase,\u201d says Farid. \u201cNobody is looking properly at the last person who\u2019s harvesting, or who\u2019s working in the farm, or in the hot sun,\u201d she says. \u201cWe need clothing designed specifically for these conditions.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Sagathia, clothing cannot be separated from basic rights. \u201cIt\u2019s part of our roti, kapda aur makaan <\/em>(bread, clothing and shelter),\u201d he says. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, experts Dialogue Earth spoke to caution against treating natural fibres as a silver bullet. While cotton and linen are generally more breathable than synthetic fabrics, neither can fully protect outdoor workers from the prolonged exposure to extreme temperatures that many now face. Farid notes that sweat takes a long time to evaporate from clothes, making them heavy in the meantime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"baby<\/div>
Ritika\u2019s four-month-old son wears cotton clothes, sent by his grandmother, as he sleeps. The family prioritises breathable fabrics for the children despite financial constraints (Image: Shalinee Kumari \/ Dialogue Earth)<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cA more sensible option is a careful blend of these fibres where the best properties of each fibre create a comfortable experience for people wearing it,\u201d says Farid. Being blended means they will also be more affordable than pure cotton clothing, says Farid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back in Ritika\u2019s home in Shahbad Dairy, her four-month-old has woken up. She tries soothing him in front of the air cooler, but the baby is inconsolable, crying through much of the afternoon. The heat refuses to die down even after the afternoon passes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Every few months, Ritika\u2019s mother sends cotton clothes for the children. \u201cIt is impossible to make them wear synthetic clothes,\u201d she says. \u201cThey take them off out of irritation. They also can\u2019t sleep.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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